Dear Chefchaouen, A Town Painted in Blue

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Photo: Fbrandao.1963, CC BY-SA 4.0

Dear Chefchaouen,

Your medina is painted in shades of blue: powder, cobalt, sky. Walls, stairs and doorways blur into one continuous colour. Explanations vary for why, and residents give different answers.

You sit in the Rif Mountains in northern Morocco, and you are calmer than Marrakech or Fes, although no longer undiscovered.

This letter is about blue walls, mountain trails and visiting a small town respectfully.

What we love

♥The blue alleys
Wander the steep, narrow alleys of the medina. Early morning is quietest and the light is soft.
♥The kasbah
The fortress and its garden on the main square offer a small museum and views from the tower.
♥Ras El Maa
A spring just outside the medina where locals collect water. A short walk beyond leads to a hilltop mosque with views at sunset.
♥Hiking the Rif
The nearby Talassemtane National Park has trails and the Akchour waterfalls. Local guides are useful.

What we'd tell a friend

Getting there: Buses from Tangier, Tetouan and Fes. The journey takes a few hours on mountain roads.
How long: Two nights lets you see the town calmly and go on a hike.
Dress: Chefchaouen is conservative. Dress modestly.

This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.