Dear Patagonia, You Taught Us the Wind

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Photo: Pedro Szekely from Los Angeles, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0

Dear Patagonia,

Everyone who meets you talks about the wind. It flattens grass, bends trees sideways and can make walking a struggle on an exposed ridge.

You straddle Chile and Argentina at the southern tip of South America: glaciers, granite spires, lakes the colour of milk and turquoise, and the vast open steppe.

This letter is about scale, weather and the planning a trip here really needs.

What we love

♥Torres del Paine
Chile's national park, with its granite towers and multi-day treks such as the W and the O circuit. Accommodation and campsites on these routes often need to be booked ahead.
♥Fitz Roy from El Chaltén
Argentina's small trekking village has trails leading to views of the jagged Fitz Roy massif.
♥Perito Moreno Glacier
Walkways near El Calafate let you watch ice calving into the lake with a thunderous crack.
♥Guanacos on the steppe
Wild relatives of the llama are common in parks. Watch from a distance.

What we'd tell a friend

Getting there: Flights to Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales (Chile) and El Calafate (Argentina). Distances are huge; allow time.
When: The southern summer (roughly November to March) is the main season, with long days and strong winds. Some services reduce in winter.
What to bring: Windproof and waterproof layers, good boots and sun protection. The weather can go through four seasons in a day.

This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.

Handle with care

Fires caused by visitors have devastated parts of Torres del Paine in the past. Follow fire rules strictly, use only designated cooking areas, and pack out all rubbish.