Cape Town, South Africa
Dear Cape Town, Between the Mountain and the Sea
- Reading time
- 3 minutes
Dear Cape Town,
Some cities have a landmark. You have a mountain that decides the weather. When the southeasterly wind blows, the cloud pours over Table Mountain like a tablecloth and the whole city seems to hold its breath.
You are astonishingly beautiful, and that beauty sits alongside one of the most unequal urban landscapes in the world, shaped by colonial rule and apartheid. Any honest letter to you has to hold both of those things at once.
So this is a letter about beaches and penguins and mountain paths, but also about listening, about where money goes, and about the neighbourhoods most visitors never see.
What we love
♥Table Mountain, on foot or by cableway
The cableway is quick and has views of the whole peninsula. Hiking routes such as Platteklip Gorge are steep and exposed. The weather can change in minutes, and the cableway closes in strong wind, so check its status on the day.
♥Bo-Kaap's colours and history
The bright houses on the slopes of Signal Hill are among the most photographed in Africa. They are also homes in a historically Cape Malay Muslim community with deep roots. The Bo-Kaap Museum is a good place to start understanding it.
♥Boulders Beach penguins
African penguins, an endangered species, nest among the granite boulders near Simon's Town. Boardwalks keep visitors and birds apart. Stay on them, keep your distance, and never feed or touch the birds.
♥Chapman's Peak Drive
A toll road cut into the cliffs between Hout Bay and Noordhoek with breathtaking views over the Atlantic. It is sometimes closed after rockfalls or bad weather, so check before you set out.
♥Kirstenbosch on a weekday
The national botanical garden on the eastern slopes of the mountain showcases the fynbos, the extraordinary plant kingdom found almost nowhere else. The Boomslang canopy walkway gives you treetop views.
What we'd tell a friend
- Getting around
- Cape Town is spread out and public transport coverage is uneven for visitors. The MyCiTi bus network serves some routes; many travellers rely on ride-hailing apps or a hire car for the peninsula.
- How long to stay
- Five days lets you see the city, the peninsula and perhaps a day in the Winelands. A week is better if you want time for weather delays.
- Weather
- Summer, roughly December to February, is warm, dry and windy. Winter brings rain and cool temperatures, with fewer visitors and greener landscapes.
- Safety
- Use local advice on which areas and trails are sensible at different times, hike in groups, avoid isolated places after dark, and keep valuables out of sight. Check your government's travel advice for current information.
- Water
- The city lived through a severe drought around 2018. Water awareness remains part of local life; short showers are appreciated.
This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.
Handle with care
If you want to visit a township, choose an experience run by people who live there, with income staying in the community. Ask before photographing anyone, especially children, and avoid tours that feel like looking at people rather than meeting them.
A trip to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years, is a serious visit rather than a day out. Book ahead through the official channel, as boats sell out and weather cancellations happen.
Before you go
- Cape Town Tourism ↗ (opens an external site)
- Table Mountain Aerial Cableway ↗ (opens an external site)
- SANParks: Table Mountain National Park ↗ (opens an external site)
Cape Town, you are between the mountain and the sea, and between a past and a future still being written. We will keep listening.
With love,
The WTWL Team
Written February 2026
Spotted something out of date? Send us a correction.
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