Mexico City, Mexico
Dear CDMX, We Came for Tacos and Stayed for You
- Reading time
- 3 minutes
Dear CDMX,
Let us be honest: many people first think of you because of a taco. Al pastor carved from a spinning trompo, a sliver of pineapple flicked onto the tortilla, salsa that makes you reconsider your life choices. That is a fine way to begin.
But you are so much more than a food city. You are a capital built on the ruins of Tenochtitlan, with Aztec stones visible beside a cathedral that leans slightly because the ground beneath is soft lakebed. You have more museums than you know what to do with, and parks where whole families spend Sundays.
This letter tries to help people meet you thoughtfully: the altitude, the scale, the neighbourhoods, and the parts of you that are changing fast.
What we love
♥The Zócalo and what lies under it
The vast main square is bordered by the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace. Just off the corner, the Templo Mayor excavations show layers of the Aztec ceremonial centre found during works in the twentieth century. Seeing the two worlds side by side explains the city better than any summary.
♥Tacos at a busy street stand
A long queue of locals is usually your best review. Many stands specialise in one thing (al pastor, suadero, tacos de canasta in the morning). Point, order a few at a time, and pay at the end; the taquero will often keep count for you.
♥Palacio de Bellas Artes
The white marble exterior is Art Nouveau; the interior is Art Deco; the murals upstairs, by Rivera, Siqueiros and Orozco among others, are the reason to go in. Check the website for opening times and ticket details.
♥Sundays on Paseo de la Reforma
On Sunday mornings a large stretch of the grand avenue is closed to cars and given over to cyclists, skaters and walkers. Join in, or walk into Bosque de Chapultepec, one of the largest urban parks in the Americas.
♥Roma and Condesa streets
Tree-lined avenues, Art Deco buildings and small parks make these neighbourhoods lovely for walking. They are also where housing costs have risen sharply with the arrival of remote workers and short-term rentals, something residents talk about openly.
What we'd tell a friend
- The altitude
- At around 2,240 metres, many visitors feel short of breath or tired for the first day or two. Drink water, go easy on alcohol at first, and do not plan a major climb at Teotihuacan on your first morning.
- Getting around
- The Metro is cheap and extensive but very crowded at rush hour; some trains have carriages reserved for women and children. Metrobús lines cover major avenues. Many travellers use ride-hailing apps in the evenings. Traffic can be extraordinary, so plan generously.
- How long to stay
- Four or five days gives you the historic centre, a couple of museums, a few neighbourhoods and one day trip, perhaps to Teotihuacan or the canals of Xochimilco.
- Safety, without drama
- Like any huge city, conditions vary by area and time of day. Take ordinary precautions, keep valuables out of sight on crowded transport, and check current advice from your own government before travelling.
- Water and food
- Tap water is generally not recommended for drinking; bottled or filtered water is standard, and restaurants usually use purified ice. Busy stalls with a quick turnover are typically a good sign.
This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.
Handle with care
Some long-time residents of central neighbourhoods have been priced out by rising rents. You can help a little by choosing licensed accommodation, eating at family-run fondas rather than only new cafés, and learning a few phrases of Spanish. A simple buenos días goes a long way.
Water is a serious issue in the city, which has faced shortages in recent years. Short showers and reused towels are not symbolic here.
Before you go
- Visit Mexico (official) ↗ (opens an external site)
- Metro CDMX ↗ (opens an external site)
- Museo Nacional de Antropología ↗ (opens an external site)
We came for tacos, CDMX, and we will keep coming for them. But we stayed for the murals, the Sunday bicycles and the woman at the stand who remembered how much salsa we wanted.
With love,
The WTWL Team
Written January 2026
Spotted something out of date? Send us a correction.
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