Istanbul, Türkiye
Dear Istanbul, Two Continents, One Tea
- Reading time
- 3 minutes
Dear Istanbul,
The best introduction to you might be a ferry ticket. You step aboard in Eminönü, a man comes round with a tray of tea in tulip-shaped glasses, gulls hang in the wind beside the rail, and twenty minutes later you step off in Asia.
You have been Byzantium, Constantinople and Istanbul. You have been an imperial capital twice over. Today you are a vast, modern city of more than fifteen million people, and the domes on the skyline are only part of your story.
This letter is about slowing down between the famous sights, about the tea that punctuates every conversation, and about some of the harder realities of visiting.
What we love
♥The Bosphorus by public ferry
Skip the expensive cruises at first and take the city ferries that commuters use. Routes between Eminönü, Karaköy, Kadıköy and Üsküdar are cheap and frequent and show the city from the water.
♥Çay, everywhere
Tea is served in small tulip glasses, strong and often with sugar cubes on the saucer. It is offered in shops, offices and carpet stores. Accepting a glass does not oblige you to buy anything, though it is a moment to be polite and unhurried.
♥The Grand Bazaar and its back alleys
The covered bazaar is one of the oldest in the world. The main lanes are busy and touristy. Wander into side passages and hans, old courtyard workshops where some artisans still work.
♥Galata, at night
The medieval stone tower above Karaköy has great views, but the surrounding streets are just as rewarding: steep lanes with music shops, cafés and the sound of the city winding down.
♥Kadıköy market streets
On the Asian side, the market streets near the ferry terminal are full of fishmongers, pickle shops, cheese counters and simple restaurants. It feels more local than much of the old city.
What we'd tell a friend
- Getting there and around
- Istanbul Airport and Sabiha Gökçen serve the city. The Istanbulkart transport card works on metro, tram, buses and ferries. Traffic can be severe; rail and ferries are often faster than taxis.
- How long to stay
- Four days covers the main historic sights in Sultanahmet, the Bosphorus and some neighbourhoods. A week lets you breathe.
- Visiting mosques
- Mosques are active places of worship. Dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees; a headscarf for women), remove shoes, and avoid visiting during prayer times. Opening hours for visitors can differ from what you expect, so check on the day.
- Money and prices
- Prices have changed quickly in recent years due to inflation. We do not quote figures here for that reason. Check the current price before ordering in tourist areas, and ask about taxi fares or use a meter.
This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.
Handle with care
Many famous sites are deeply significant religious buildings. Speak quietly, do not photograph people at prayer, and follow the rules about dress and timing even when they are inconvenient.
Istanbul's street cats are cared for by the community, with food and water left out by residents. Enjoy them, but do not pick them up or encourage children to chase them.
Before you go
- Go Türkiye (official tourism) ↗ (opens an external site)
- Metro Istanbul ↗ (opens an external site)
- UNESCO: Historic Areas of Istanbul ↗ (opens an external site)
Istanbul, two continents and a glass of tea in between. Next time we will take the ferry just for the crossing, with nowhere in particular to be.
With love,
The WTWL Team
Written February 2026
Spotted something out of date? Send us a correction.
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