Dear Edinburgh, A City That Tells Stories in Stone

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Photo: Daniel Kraft, CC BY-SA 3.0

Dear Edinburgh,

Your Old Town grew upward and downward because there was nowhere else to go. Tall tenements crowd the spine of the Royal Mile, and narrow closes drop away from it like ribs, steep and dim and full of stories.

Across the valley, the Georgian New Town is all order and symmetry. Between them sits a railway station and a garden, and the contrast between the two halves of you is one of the great urban sights of Europe.

This letter is about stone, stairs and stories, and about August, when the city fills to bursting.

What we love

♥The closes off the Royal Mile
Step off the main street into the narrow lanes and stairs. Many have names that tell of former trades or residents. Some lead to quiet courtyards; others to dramatic views.
♥Calton Hill at sunset
A short climb from the east end of Princes Street gives views of the castle, Arthur's Seat and the sea. The unfinished National Monument is oddly beautiful.
♥Arthur's Seat
An ancient volcano right in the city. Paths vary from gentle to steep; the summit can be windy and slippery. Proper shoes help.
♥Victoria Street's curve
Colourful shopfronts curve down to the Grassmarket. It is very popular with photographers, so go early.
♥Free national museums
The National Museum of Scotland and the national galleries are generally free to enter, though special exhibitions may charge. The museum's rooftop terrace has a fine view.

What we'd tell a friend

Getting there and around: Edinburgh Waverley station has direct trains from London and across Scotland. Trams link the airport to the city centre. Lothian Buses cover the city well, and walking is often easiest.
How long to stay: Three days is a good start; more if you plan day trips into the Highlands or along the coast.
Weather: Layers, and a waterproof jacket in every season. A sunny morning can turn to rain by noon.
August: The festival season, including the Fringe, transforms the city. It is thrilling and very crowded, and accommodation prices rise sharply. Book well ahead, or visit at another time.
Accessibility: The Old Town is hilly with many steps and cobbles. The New Town is flatter. Many attractions publish accessibility information.

This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.

Handle with care

Edinburgh has introduced measures around short-term rentals amid concerns about housing for residents. Consider licensed accommodation and staying in neighbourhoods like Leith or Stockbridge.

Graveyards like Greyfriars Kirkyard are popular with visitors, but they remain burial grounds. Behave respectfully and stay on paths.