Lisbon, Portugal
Dear Lisbon in January
- Reading time
- 3 minutes

Dear Lisbon, in January,
In January, you are quieter. The cruise ships are fewer, the tram queues shorter, and the smell of roasting chestnuts drifts from carts on street corners.
You are mild by northern European standards, but winter here can be rainy and damp, and many older buildings are not well heated.
This is a letter about off-season Lisbon: what changes, and what to expect.
What we love
♥Castanhas assadas
Chestnuts roasted in street carts, served in paper cones. The smoke smells of winter.
♥Empty viewpoints
On a clear winter day, the miradouros are calm and the light is sharp and low.
♥Museums on rainy days
The Gulbenkian, the National Tile Museum and MAAT make wet afternoons easy.
What we'd tell a friend
- Weather
- Expect mild days, some rain and cool evenings. Check the Portuguese weather institute for forecasts.
- Indoors
- Many older apartments are chilly. Ask about heating when booking.
- Shoes
- Wet calçada is very slippery. Grip matters even more in winter.
This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.
Handle with care
Winter is when many residents get their city back. Travelling off-season spreads visitor spending more evenly through the year, which helps local businesses.
Before you go
- IPMA (Portuguese weather institute) ↗ (opens an external site)
- Visit Lisboa ↗ (opens an external site)
Lisbon in January, you smell of chestnuts and rain. We like you very much this way.
With love,
The WTWL Team
Written July 2026
Spotted something out of date? Send us a correction.
More letters you might like
Lisbon, Portugal
Dear Lisbon, You Made Us Climb to Love You
Seven hills, worn limestone pavements and a yellow tram that groans up the slope like it has opinions. You are not an easy city to walk, and that is part of the point.
Sintra, Portugal
Dear Sintra, Fairy Tale with a Sensible Pair of Shoes
Palaces in the mist, forests full of ferns, and hills that are steeper than every photograph suggests. Come early, and wear proper shoes.
Crowds and timing
Dear Traveller, How to Visit a Popular Place More Gently
Practical strategies for timing, crowd awareness and considerate behaviour at the places everyone wants to see.