Dear Nara, The Deer Bow First

Reading time: 3 minutes

Photo: TR15336300101, CC BY-SA 4.0

Dear Nara,

In you, the deer bow. Or at least, many of them have learned to dip their heads when they see someone holding shika senbei, the special crackers sold to feed them. It is charming and a little comic.

You were Japan's capital in the eighth century, and many of your temples date from that era. The deer are considered sacred messengers in Shinto tradition, and are protected.

This letter is about bronze Buddhas, stone lanterns and how to behave around animals that are wild, not pets.

What we love

♥Todai-ji's Great Buddha
The great hall houses a giant bronze Buddha. The scale is hard to grasp until you are standing in front of it.
♥Kasuga Taisha's lanterns
Thousands of stone and bronze lanterns line the paths and hang in the shrine. The forest approach is lovely in the morning.
♥Naramachi
The old merchant quarter has narrow streets, traditional machiya houses, small museums and cafés. A quieter side of the town.
♥The deer, from a respectful distance
Over a thousand deer roam the park. They are wild animals and can bite, butt or kick, especially in the autumn rutting season or when they see food.

What we'd tell a friend

Getting there: Nara is under an hour by train from Kyoto or Osaka. Kintetsu Nara station is closer to the park than JR Nara.
How long: A day trip covers the main park sights. An overnight stay lets you see it quiet in the early morning.
Feeding the deer: Feed only the official crackers, never human food or plastic. Keep bags closed and paper maps tucked away; deer may try to eat them.

This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.