Seoul, South Korea
Dear Seoul, Never Sleeping, Always Kind
- Reading time
- 3 minutes
Dear Seoul,
You never seem to sleep. Neon in Myeongdong, karaoke rooms, convenience stores, late-night barbecue joints. But you are also a city of mountains you can hike before breakfast, and palaces where the only sound is the wind in the pine trees.
You have changed incredibly quickly within a single lifetime, and the old and the new sit beside each other in a way that can feel startling.
This letter is about your palaces, markets and streams, and about the gentle efficiency that makes you so easy to love.
What we love
♥Gyeongbokgung Palace
The largest of the Joseon-era palaces. The changing of the guard ceremony is colourful. Visitors wearing hanbok can often enter free; check current rules.
♥Bukchon Hanok Village
Traditional wooden houses on a hillside between palaces. Many are homes. The area has introduced visiting restrictions in some zones; follow the signs and keep your voice low.
♥Gwangjang Market
One of the oldest markets in the city. Try bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) fried on the spot, or kimbap. Busy, noisy and delicious.
♥Cheonggyecheon Stream
A restored stream running through the city centre, with walking paths below street level. A quiet green ribbon through skyscrapers.
♥Hiking in the city
Mountains like Bukhansan and Inwangsan are reachable by subway. On weekends you will share the trails with Seoulites in full hiking gear.
What we'd tell a friend
- Getting around
- The subway is extensive, clean and signed in English. A rechargeable T-money card works on subway, buses and some taxis.
- How long to stay
- Four or five days for the city, with more for day trips such as the DMZ (on an official tour only) or Suwon.
- Maps
- Some international map apps work less well in South Korea. Local apps such as Naver Map or KakaoMap are often more reliable.
- Weather
- Summers are hot and humid with a monsoon season; winters can be very cold. Spring and autumn are popular for good reason.
This is general guidance. Prices, timetables, opening hours and entry rules change, so please check the official sources below before you travel.
Handle with care
In Bukchon and other residential areas, residents have long struggled with noise and crowds. Respect quiet hours and restricted zones, and never peer into or enter private homes.
Recycling and rubbish separation are taken seriously. Follow the bins and sorting systems where you find them.
Before you go
- Visit Seoul (official) ↗ (opens an external site)
- Korea Tourism Organization ↗ (opens an external site)
Seoul, you never sleep and yet you are always kind. We will meet you again on a hill, early, before the city wakes.
With love,
The WTWL Team
Written March 2026
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